Yerevan

Older than Rome, founded in 782 BC and rebuilt last century in pink volcanic tuff around one architect's radial plan, Yerevan keeps Mount Ararat in view though the peak now sits across a closed border.

You get rock-cut monasteries, cellar-aged brandy and almost nobody else in the frame.

Fly into:

• Zvartnots International EVN

Day-trips to Geghard, Garni and Sevan run by hired driver, about 60 to 100 EUR a day, or by cheaper shared tours from Republic Square. In the city the metro is a flat fare and Yandex Go taxis are quick and cheap.

Climb the Cascade at golden hour, when the city glows and the brandy bars below fill up. For Geghard, go at opening to stand alone in the rock-cut chapels and hear how the carved stone sings.

Best in Spring

Spring: mild days around 15 to 22C, cool evenings, with occasional showers in the surrounding mountains.

• comfortable shoes for monastery steps
• layers for cool highland evenings
• a daypack for excursions
• sunglasses for the bright high-altitude light
• a refillable water bottle