Valpa­raíso

Valparaíso's hills, or cerros, have been sculpted by a century of maritime trade and the resilient spirit of its residents, creating a city that's less a museum piece and more a living, breathing canvas.

Its UNESCO World Heritage status acknowledges not just its iconic ascensores, but the labyrinthine urban fabric, where every winding path reveals a new burst of color or a hidden café, a stark contrast to the modern glitz of nearby Viña del Mar.

Fly into:

• Santiago International Airport SCL

Within Valparaíso, the historic ascensores and shared colectivos cover the hills, with walking for exploring the colorful cerros. The Metro Valparaíso (Merval) train swiftly connects Valparaíso with Viña del Mar and other coastal towns.

Valparaíso comes alive in the late afternoon, as the golden light hits the hills and street artists finish their work. Find a terraza on Cerro Alegre or Concepción for a pisco sour as the sun sets over the Pacific. The city's rhythm is one of ascent and descent, embracing the funiculars as part of daily life.

Best in Spring

Spring: mild and pleasant around 15-20C, with clear skies and occasional cool Pacific breezes.

• comfortable walking shoes for hilly streets
• a light jacket or sweater for cool evenings
• a small daypack for essentials
• camera for capturing street art
• sunscreen and sunglasses