Tbilisi

Tbilisi, sitting in a valley carved by the Mtkvari River, showcases centuries of rule by various empires, yet has cultivated a fiercely independent character.

While its brick-domed sulphur baths hint at Silk Road antiquity, Georgia's true legacy is its unbroken 8,000-year-old qvevri winemaking tradition, a UNESCO heritage, now experiencing a modern resurgence in Tbilisi's natural wine bars.

Fly into:

• Tbilisi International TBS

Tbilisi's metro is efficient for longer distances, while taxis are affordable for shorter hops. For day trips, marshrutkas (minibuses) are the budget choice, or shared taxis offer more flexibility to Kazbegi and Uplistsikhe.

Evenings come alive, from late dinners to impromptu toasts with local chacha, a grape brandy. If invited, experience a supra, the traditional Georgian feast, where a toastmaster guides the celebration. Explore the city's hidden courtyards and art nouveau entrances during the day for a different rhythm.

Best in Spring

Spring: mild and pleasant around 15-25C, with blooming trees and occasional light rain showers.

• comfortable walking shoes for hills
• light layers for evening coolness
• a daypack for mountain excursions
• reusable water bottle