Seoul

Seoul rebuilt itself from the ruins of war into one of the world's most wired cities, yet kept its Joseon palaces and hanok lanes intact between the towers.

Come for the contrast: a dawn temple and a 4am fried-chicken-and-beer table fit in the same weekend, stitched together by a subway that reaches almost everywhere.

Fly into:

• Incheon International ICN
• Gimpo International GMP

The subway is fast, clean and signed in English; a tap-and-go T-money card runs 1 to 3 EUR a ride and reaches almost everywhere. Taxis are cheap for short late-night hops once the trains stop.

Eat where the queues are: Gwangjang Market's pancake stalls and the pojangmacha tents that fold out after dark. A jjimjilbang is the local reset, hot pools then a cold room and a sweet sikhye, and many stay open all night if you miss the last train.

Best in Spring

Spring: mild with cherry blossom around 10 to 20C, still cool in early spring.

• comfortable shoes for long city walks
• a light jacket for cool evenings
• a portable power bank
• a compact umbrella for spring showers
• a refillable water bottle