Oaxaca

Oaxaca built its fame on complexity: seven moles, mezcal distilled in village palenques, and Zapotec craft that predates the Spanish.

Spend a day in the Valles Centrales and the museum piece becomes lunch, a weaver at a backstrap loom in Teotitlan, mezcal straight off the still in Matatlan, then the result on your plate two doors down.

Fly into:

• Oaxaca International OAX
• Mexico City International MEX

Oaxaca's centre is small and best on foot. For the valley villages, mezcal palenques and Hierve el Agua, shared colectivo minibuses leave from the second-class bus terminal for a few euros, or a private taxi covers the whole loop for about 50 to 70 EUR a day.

Markets run on rhythm: go to 20 de Noviembre early for a chocolate-and-pan breakfast and let the comedoras feed you whatever is freshest. Mezcal here is sipped, never shot, often with a pinch of sal de gusano on the side.

Best in Fall

Fall: warm dry days around 22 to 28C, cooler evenings and clear skies, ideal for the valley.

• light cotton clothing for warm days
• sturdy walking sandals for cobbles and ruins
• a wide-brimmed hat for the open valley
• a tote bag for market finds
• a refillable water bottle