Kyoto

Kyoto was Japan's imperial capital for a thousand years and was spared the wartime bombing, so its wooden machiya, Zen gardens and Gion teahouses survive largely intact.

Stay here for the slow mornings, temples at opening before the crowds, then let Osaka's roaring street-food quarter run as a 15-minute bullet-train night out.

Fly into:

• Kansai International KIX
• Osaka Itami ITM

The Shinkansen links Kyoto and Osaka in under 15 minutes for 10 to 15 EUR. Within Kyoto, the bus and subway grid is easy and cheap at 1.50 to 3 EUR a ride, though the temple districts reward walking and a rented bicycle.

Kyoto rewards the early riser: Fushimi Inari and the Arashiyama groves are yours before 8am, empty and silent. Save the appetite for Osaka after dark, where Dotonbori's stalls and standing izakaya are loud and cheap, the exact opposite of Kyoto's hush.

Best in Spring

Spring: mild around 15 to 20C, sunny cherry-blossom days with the odd light shower.

• comfortable shoes for temple-hopping
• a light jacket for cool evenings
• a compact umbrella for spring rain
• a tote bag for Nishiki Market finds
• a power bank for long days out