IstanbulAsia

Photo by Anna Berdnik on Unsplash

DETOUR · Nº 015
May 31, 2026

Istanbul

Fish sandwiches off the bridge, ferries between continents, domes at dusk.

Nº 015$$Spring / Fall

Why visit

01 / 10

The case for going

Istanbul is the only city on two continents, capital of Byzantium then the Ottomans, with Hagia Sophia trading between church and mosque for 1,500 years.

Skip the monument queues and ride the Bosphorus like a local: a few-lira ferry drops you in Kadikoy on the Asian side, all markets and meyhane, not a tour group in sight.

What to do

02 / 10

Ways to spend a day

Fish sandwiches off the bridge, ferries between continents, domes at dusk.

Where to stay

03 / 10

The right base

Accommodation €30–60/night

  • Sultanahmet

    the old-city sights at your door

  • Karakoy

    hip waterfront, galleries and cafes

  • Kadikoy

    the Asian side, local markets and bars

  • Balat

    colourful and photogenic, steep old lanes

How to get there

04 / 10

Easiest way in

Fly into:

  • Istanbul Airport IST
  • Sabiha Gokcen International SAW

How to get around

05 / 10

Once you land

The Istanbulkart taps you onto trams, the metro, funiculars and above all the Bosphorus ferries, the cheapest sightseeing in the city. Cross to the Asian side by ferry from Eminonu or Karakoy in about 20 minutes, and skip the rush-hour road taxis.

What to eat

06 / 10

Order this

Food €15–30/day

By the numbers

07 / 10

Cards on the table

Safety index

70/100

General guide, not advisory data

Best seasons

Spring · Fall

When it's at its best

Stay for

4 days

The sweet spot

Daily spend

$$

Mid-range

How to fit in

08 / 10

Read the room

Catch the first morning ferry to the Asian side and eat breakfast in Kadikoy before the crowds wake. Let the shopkeeper pour you cay before you talk price, and save your appetite for the raki and meze tables on Nevizade that run past midnight.

How to pack

09 / 10

What goes in the bag

Best in Spring

Spring: mild and bright around 15 to 22C, with comfortable sun and the odd shower blowing off the Bosphorus.

  • comfortable shoes for steep cobbled streets
  • a light scarf for breezy ferry decks
  • layers for cool evenings
  • a daypack for all-day wandering
  • a refillable water bottle

How to prepare

10 / 10

The boring bits

Three things worth sorting before you fly.

Tomorrow's detour

One place worth the trip.

Curated destinations, one a day.