FesAfrica

Photo by Macia Serrano on Unsplash

DETOUR · Nº 104
October 3, 2026

Fes

Dyers' vats, labyrinthine souks, and Fassi mint tea.

Nº 104$$Spring / Fall

Why visit

01 / 10

The case for going

Fes holds the largest, most intact medieval medina in the world.

Its core, Fes el-Bali, has been continuously inhabited since the 9th century, preserving a complex artisan economy where guilds still shape urban life. Unlike other historical cities, Fes's daily rhythm still pulsates through car-free alleyways, a living bridge to a past where traditions, not tourism, dictate the pace, and the famous Chouara tannery still dyes leather in sun-baked vats.

What to do

02 / 10

Ways to spend a day

Dyers' vats, labyrinthine souks, and Fassi mint tea.

Where to stay

03 / 10

The right base

Accommodation €30–70/night

  • Fes el-Bali

    the ancient medina, car-free and truly immersive

  • Talaa Kebira

    main medina artery, bustling with shops and food stalls

  • Ville Nouvelle

    modern district, quieter with wider avenues and familiar comforts

How to get there

04 / 10

Easiest way in

Fly into:

  • Fes-Saïs Airport FEZ
  • Mohammed V International Airport CMN

How to get around

05 / 10

Once you land

The Fes medina is pedestrian-only, best explored on foot. For longer distances within Fes, petit taxis are metered and affordable. For day trips to Volubilis and Meknes, hire a grand taxi for a few hours, or take a local bus or shared taxi from the main stations.

What to eat

06 / 10

Order this

Food €15–30/day

By the numbers

07 / 10

Cards on the table

Safety index

70/100

General guide, not advisory data

Best seasons

Spring · Fall

When it's at its best

Stay for

5 days

The sweet spot

Daily spend

$$

Mid-range

How to fit in

08 / 10

Read the room

Embrace getting lost in the medina: the best discoveries are made down unmarked alleyways. Mornings are busiest in the souks, while late afternoons offer a more relaxed pace. Many riads offer traditional cooking classes, a great way to understand Fassi cuisine.

How to pack

09 / 10

What goes in the bag

Best in Spring

Spring: pleasant and warm around 20-28C during the day, with cooler, clear evenings.

  • broken-in walking shoes for medina lanes
  • light layers for day and evening
  • a wide-brimmed hat for sun protection
  • a small backpack for day trips

How to prepare

10 / 10

The boring bits

Three things worth sorting before you fly.

Tomorrow's detour

One place worth the trip.

Curated destinations, one a day.