El Chaltén

Everyone pictures Patagonia as a mountaineer's gauntlet, but El Chaltén was built from scratch in 1985 as Argentina's trekking capital: the trails to Fitz Roy and Cerro Torre leave from the last street in town, and most are day-hikes.

Stand under the spires at first light and you are back for a craft beer by dinner.

Fly into:

• El Calafate International FTE

Regular buses link El Calafate and El Chaltén in about three hours for 25 to 35 EUR, and the Perito Moreno glacier is an organised day-tour or transfer from El Calafate, roughly 60 to 80 EUR. Every El Chaltén trail starts on foot from the village edge.

Watch the wind, not the clock: locals start the Laguna de los Tres climb in the dark because the peaks clear at dawn and cloud over by lunch. Afterwards the whole town piles into the breweries on San Martin to compare trail notes over a pint.

Best in Summer

Summer: highly changeable from 10 to 20C, with famously strong wind and sun that can flip to sleet within an hour even in January.

• a windproof and waterproof shell jacket
• sturdy broken-in hiking boots
• a warm hat and gloves
• layers for fast-changing weather
• strong sunscreen and sunglasses
• a refillable water bottle