Cusco

Cusco was the Inca capital, and the Spanish raised their churches straight onto its temple walls, so one lane shows 500-year-old polished stone holding up a baroque facade.

Use it as base camp: the Sacred Valley's terraces, the Sunday market at Pisac and Machu Picchu itself are all day-trips down a single train line.

Fly into:

• Alejandro Velasco Astete International CUZ
• Jorge Chavez International LIM

Colectivos and intercity buses link Cusco with the Sacred Valley towns for 2 to 10 EUR; in town it is mostly walking or a 2 to 5 EUR taxi. For Machu Picchu, take the train from Ollantaytambo and book weeks ahead, it sells out.

Give the altitude a day before any climb: arrive slow, walk gently, drink coca tea. Mornings belong to the markets, Pisac on Sunday especially, when highland families come down to trade and the plaza fills with weavers before the tour buses arrive.

Best in Winter

Winter: crisp dry days with strong sun around 18 to 22C, nights near freezing, so pack warm layers.

• layers for big day-to-night temperature swings
• high-SPF sunscreen and a wide-brimmed hat
• broken-in hiking boots
• a daypack for excursions
• a refillable water bottle