BakuAsia

Photo by Lloyd Alozie on Unsplash

DETOUR · Nº 099
September 28, 2026

Baku

Flame Towers, walled caravanserai, and saffron plov.

Nº 099$$Spring / Fall

Why visit

01 / 10

The case for going

Baku is where ancient Silk Road trading posts and hyper-modernist architecture collide, a city built on oil wealth.

Its UNESCO-listed Icherisheher, a walled medieval city with caravanserai courtyards, sits in the shadow of the contemporary Flame Towers, and locals treat this blend of old and new as nothing remarkable, simply part of the city's pulse.

What to do

02 / 10

Ways to spend a day

Flame Towers, walled caravanserai, and saffron plov.

Where to stay

03 / 10

The right base

Accommodation €40–80/night

In Baku

  • Icherisheher

    historic walled city, quiet courtyards, close to main sights

  • Sahil

    modern central area, access to promenade, many dining options

  • Nizami Street

    pedestrian area, shopping, lively evening atmosphere

In Sheki

  • Sheki town

    charming Silk Road base, historic inns, mountain drives

How to get there

04 / 10

Easiest way in

Fly into:

  • Heydar Aliyev International GYD

How to get around

05 / 10

Once you land

Within Baku, the metro is efficient and cheap. Taxis are readily available via local apps like Bolt. For day trips to Gobustan, private taxis or organized tours are best. Sheki is reachable by comfortable overnight train or shared marshrutka (minibus) from Baku.

What to eat

06 / 10

Order this

Food €20–40/day

By the numbers

07 / 10

Cards on the table

Safety index

76/100

General guide, not advisory data

Best seasons

Spring · Fall

When it's at its best

Stay for

5 days

The sweet spot

Daily spend

$$

Mid-range

How to fit in

08 / 10

Read the room

Embrace the local rhythm by taking long evening strolls on the boulevard. Tea is a social ritual, often served with jam and sweets; accept if offered. Observe how the city's Soviet past, ancient heritage, and modern aspirations coexist, often on the same street.

How to pack

09 / 10

What goes in the bag

Best in Spring

Spring: mild and pleasant days around 15-22C, with cooler evenings and occasional light rain.

  • layers for varied temperatures
  • comfortable walking shoes
  • a light jacket for evenings
  • portable power bank

How to prepare

10 / 10

The boring bits

Three things worth sorting before you fly.

Tomorrow's detour

One place worth the trip.

Curated destinations, one a day.